Ethiopia

Traveling in Ethiopia is like playing solitaire with 48 and a half cards - its fun, but you may lose your mind....

Historically, Ethiopia is fascinating. The area was lorded over by one of my favorite figures in history - the Queen of Sheeba. She decided to pop in on King Solomon (he of the mines) for a cuppa and a cucumber sandwich. The visit went well and Sheeba returned to Ethiopia with child. The child only visited his father once and was said to have stolen the Ark of the Covenant and secreted it away to a church in northern Ethiopia where it is thought to reside to this day.

If this is sounding like the plot of an Indiana Jones flick - you would not believe how much it looks the part!

The south is, frankly, rubbish and except for Nat Geo bare chests (Ian smiling fondly) there was not much to it.

Next: Harar - the fourth most Muslim place in the world. A warren of alleys and houses peppered with cute markets; the highlight was the Hyenas. I'm personally not partial to hyenas, but these do tricks! The men from the village go out of the Town walls each night and feed these mangy beasts... from their MOUTHS!!! It's cringe-worthy, but you can't stop looking.

We took a trip to Bahir Dar. Here we discovered a lake dotted with islands which are home to ancient monasteries where monks still roam. There are apparently tens of them, although our craft was only seaworthy enough for the most cursory of visits.

Then (inexplicably) there is a castle in amongst all of this...... Gonder!

A weird Christmas, a strange illness and a bizarre new year's later, we were off to Lalibela. Lalibela should be as synonymous with Ethiopia as the pyramids are with Egypt. Why they remain such a well kept secret is curious, but it does let you feel like you are venturing where only missionaries and Englishmen have gone before.

The churches were built by Emperor Lalibela and are hewn from the rocky hillocks that surround the town. Conveniently, the angels showed up and chiseled out these beauties in one night - a handy explanation for an otherwise hard to explain phenomenon. Add to this dark tunnels which connect the churches and allow you to pop out into all sorts of secret rooms and you have a great place to play. Throw in the relative absence of people and the tendency of the monks to hole themselves up in small spaces carved out of the stone and its like your parents went to the PTA meeting and you have the house all to yourself!

The monks do come out in the mornings to warm themselves in the sun. Their skin is dry and reptilian and their ascetic life leaves them painfully thin. Even during the brief respite from their devotion, they are glassy eyed, mumbling prays, chanting or reading from their bibles. Not just a bit creepy.

Lalibela was phenomenal, but I will let the pictures do the talking:

Nairobi! This sophisticated, modern city is magnificently African, although one can still detect the faint touches of colonialism around the edges. It's a scrappy little place and it's people are stoic. They have set their jaws against the riots and unrest that has plagued the city in recent years and are determined to evolve. The ritzy malls and condo's give way to some African quirks - not all the inner city roads are paved and Masaai in traditional garb graze cattle along suburban sidewalks. There is a drought in Kenya, but I am not sure that homeowners appreciate their gardens being used as heifer delis!

Our first stop was Lake Bogoria – a strange and beautiful place where geysers boil up from under the earth sending plumes of steam into the sky. The saline waters support millions of flamingoes which turn the lake pink.

Our return to Nairobi a month later was less than victorious. Struck down with malaria, which we had contracted in Uganda, we spent a dismal week feeling very sorry for ourselves. Back on our feet, we headed north. Northern Kenya is far dryer, and less populated than the south. Here Masaai ignore boundaries and borders to graze their cattle as far a field as Ethiopia and Tanzania. Driving along the barren Masaai plains, the only colour is provided by the Masaai themselves.

The Masaai are the most impressive human beings we have ever seen. They are draped with traditional sarongs or ‘kangas’ in red, purple and orange. The men wear a leather beaded belt on which they hang a large

knife (and a cell phone.) They carry sticks and spears to direct and protect their cattle. Both men and women wear beaded necklaces and chandelier-like earrings which stretch their lobes down to their shoulders.

We stayed with Michael on his ranch – El Karama in Samburu. Here animals still roam wild across the gargantuan farms. In fact, his farm boasts every kind of animal you would see in a game park with the exception of rhinos. This includes the great cats, whose presence was confirmed by the carcasses of animals they have snacked on – some disturbingly close to our campsite. Hippos played in the nearby river and elephants grazed on the opposite bank. It was a treat and we thank

Michael for his brilliant hospitality and strongly recommend a visit to El Karama (they also have chalets).

Traveling north we encountered many traditional tribes people, some of whom are pictured below.

Me goose, UGANDA!

Ok, so I know we have said this before, but we really mean it this time: this is our favorite African country! When I thought of Uganda, I thought of Idi Amin and gorillas (which is the same thing really), but Uganda has SO much more to offer. The first thing you notice as you drive in from Kenya is the green. Its LUscious! The industrious people of Uganda are avid farmers and the endless hills are neatly patchworked into hedged farms of every crop imaginable. Every inch of land is used and the farms are so neat and well maintained.

We spent a few nights at the source of the Nile River and headed north for the chaos that is Kampala. The traffic is epic and made all the more fun by the constant rain. Our destination was the Bwindi Impenetrable forest where we hoped to visit the mountain gorillas. There was alot to see along the way including these fun cows:

The beautiful unspoiled rainforests of Bwindi are certainly a sight to see. We were SO LUCKY with our gorillas. We arrived on the scene to find a Silver Back and a female. The Silver Back charged (a pants changing experience) just to show us that he is the king of the jungle. Once we had all agreed on this, he settled down and the family came forth from the foliage. All 22 of them! Plus babies! Lucky fish...

A boy from the village with his new calf.

The Silver Back charges.

Hung over

Munchin on some luncheon

Bless!

We were not done with the great apes yet, so we went on a trip to Queen Elizabeth Park; there to see the chimps. They were terrific and made a huge noise and beat their chests and screeched at us.

After the chimps, it was off to meet the king of the pygmies! The pygmy colony lives in the forest as well, although their homes are less grand. The colony is allowed by the government to grow and smoke marijuana, which they do with great enthusiasm.

Ian with the pygmy king brandishing the royal spear.

All in all, a great country made sweeter by the open, friendly nature of the villagers. Driving along, they line the streets and sing and wave at you and shouts of "How arrrrrre youuuuuuuuuu!" follow wherever you go. Its a great destination and we loved it.

Tanzania has an abundance of natural beauty, coupled with a friendly population and an industrious economy. From the time you cross the border, the road winds up into the green mountains patch worked with banana farms and corn fields. Dar es Salaam is a vibrant city; we wandered the streets and poked about in the small shops and markets. Dar has glorious beaches and we spent a few days relaxing on the white sand under the coconut palms. Next, a ferry ride took us to the magical island of Zanzibar. The warren of small alleys and ancient buildings of Stonetown open up into bustling spice scented markets. You can buy everything from a lobster to a wife here if you have the cash. We rented an old Vespa and headed for the beach. The azure waters dotted with wooden dhows are tre’ romantic. Along the unspoilt beaches, local women grow seaweed and men dive for octopus and shellfish.

Next we took a three day hike into the Leshoto Mountains and slept in convents and villages along the way. We camped at the foot of Kilimanjaro whose snow covered peaks are truly as beautiful as everyone makes them out to be. Next: Kenya, Uganda and mountain Gorillas….

Kids in the Leshoto mountains

The daily water run.

Cool pets

Village Pottery

Beautiful Kiimanjaro

Wowi Malawi!

Most of our Malawi trip was spent on the shores of Lake Malawi. Clear waters filled with colourful freshwater fish fringed by white sand beaches. The banks of the lake are rife with backpackers and lodges and we did very little traveling every day. It was a welcome break from the long trips of the last few months. We used the time to recharge, repack and reorganize in preparation for Tanzania.

We started in the south in Blantyre where we enjoyed hiking through the tea plantations and up Mount Mulange. The rainforest slopes are steep and we found the climb very difficult. We were just about at the top and congratulating each other when we came across a group of villagers who were cutting down the pine plantations. They run up the mountain in the morning, chop down a tree with a machete, place it on their heads and run all the way down. Barefoot. In the winter.

This is a battery charger/welding machine made by a very industrious Malawian local

The beautiful Mount Mulange which is fringed with lushious green tea plantations.

A local taxi - sometimes its better to have your own wheels!

Mozambique

The civil war of the recent past has, ifanything, made Mozambicans more determined to be peaceful. They are happy,quick to smile and more jovial than their African neighbours. Music and danceare everywhere. If you want an instant street party, just turn up your carstereo and voila – spontaneous outbreaks of dancing.

The diet consists mainly of fish andseafood. Everything here is of enormous proportions – anemones the size ofdinner plates, crabs as big as your face and lobsters the size of smallchildren. Add to that an abundance of cheap, cold beer and you can understandwhy the Mozambicans are so very happy.

We started off in Tete, where we stayed onthe banks of the Zambezi. The children in Mozambique are curious and engaging.Barefoot and threadbare, they seem so incredibly happy and well adjusted; onebegins to wonder if it is not our children who are disadvantaged.

From Tete to the town of Mocuba which has apost communist era feel with stately old buildings and once grand monuments tocomrades past. From here we took the ‘road’ to Ilha de Mozambique where weproceeded to camp on the white beaches under the coconut palms.  The island was home to a stately Portuguesecolonial community of means as can be seen in the now dilapidated remnants of aonce grand civilization. When the Portuguese left in the ‘70’s, the localsmoved into their palatial homes. Unable to maintain them, the homes have slowlysuccumbed to the weather, damp and vegetation. Frankly, I think they have neverlooked better. We were so taken with the place that we bought a house.  Once we have rid the house of mould,vegetation and a couple of chickens, visitors will be welcome!

The street where we live.

?The revolution eats its children.? Samora Michel

No greater example of this exists than Zimbabwe. Here people still refer to ?him who shall not be named? obliquely and will say only: ?the political situation is bad...? ? a product of reprisals past.

Enter stage left: Morgan Tsvangeri, hero of the people.

Beaten, imprisoned, exiled, his persistence both inspires and reflects the resilience of the people and encourages a nation on its knees to stand once more.

Last year they had no food, no medicine and no money to pay government workers which meant no schools or public services. Cholera and sanctions served to compound the problem.

Today there is food in stores, medicine in hospitals, children in schools and hope in hearts. People bear their burdens with a venerable resilience and sense of humour. They are the friendliest and most hospitable people we have met.

The trip started well although the crossing from Botswana was delayed while we waited for a herd of elephants to cross the road. The town of Victoria Falls is quaint and the Falls themselves are spectacular.

The road from here to Binga is, well, bloody awful. Holes in African dirt roads are called ?dongas? and can range from small cracks to giant ravines big enough to swallow your car. This road had every shade of donga cleverly disguised with a layer of children, animals, bicycles and elephants. We finally made it to Binga where signs of a sumptuous colonial past made for a quaintly dilapidated town.

From Binga to Kariba to Mana Pools; a nature reserve unique in that it allows tourists to walk around and mingle with the lions, leopards, cheetahs and other dangerous members of the animal family. We had elephants and buffalo wandering among the tents and I had to be vigilant while cooking or the hyenas and monkeys would nick our meal. I managed to keep the hyenas at bay, but the monkeys ended up in the car. At nights lions roared nearby and hippos grazed the leaves around the car making midnight bathroom runs a very exciting affair.

Harare was beautiful with well manicured suburbs and fancy shopping malls.

Accommodation is inexpensive, the countryside is gorgeous, beds are made and waiting, tables are laid and the people are incredible. So where the bloody hell are you?

We traveled to the Caprivi Strip where we found what is undoubtedly the best  backpacker's in Namibia; one so great that it has  crept into our 'Ten Best Backpackers of  all Time' list. Ngepi is run by Marc (the only man to actually know the answers to life, the universe and everything) and his able crew. The best feature is the very creative lav-a-tree arrangements:

Loo with a view!

From Ngepi to the Okavango Delta and a three day trip in a dugout canoe. There is something about being transported through someone else's volition that is perfectly decadent and as our guide poled us through the waters of the Delta, I felt like Cleopatra although, by day three, far less fragrant I'm afraid!

I had always thought of it as the Okavango swamp and, when booking my trip, I had visions of canoeing through icky slime in murky depths. However, there is nothing icky or slimy about the elegant reeds and lily pads and the depths are neither deep npr murky - that's because this is no swamp; its a delta baby; tranquil, clean, magestic!

We were happy to find that a canoe trip in the Okavango does not only entail canoeing, but also walking safaris. Having grown up with driving safaris,during which all your digits are kept safely inside the vehicle at all times, we really enjoyed getting up close and persoinal with the wildlife including elephants!

Next: Zimbabwe

We have been travelling in Namibia for several weeks. The south is barren, dry, dusty and windy. Long, hot drives were broken with a short stay in Ai-Ais. Here hot mineral water bubbles up though the mud of the Fish River and is fed into giant hot tubs where you can soak like lazy hippos. Such a thing in such a place is proof of benevolent forces are afoot in the universe.

Etosha Game Reserve with its azure pools yielded a good day?s animal spotting with lions and elephants. On to Treesleeper where we spent a couple of days living with the Bushmen and learning their traditional methods of hunting with poison arrows, making alcohol, starting fires by rubbing sticks together and (of course) sleeping in trees.

How to bury a Bushman?..

Being nomadic hunters, Bushman have no use for cemeteries. Animals could easily dig up anything buried in the soft desert sand, so?.

Tie the deceased into a foetal position with arms over legs and a long pole under the arms. Two men will take the pole on either end and carry the corpse to the nearest termite hill which is very large and looks like this...

They cut off the top and place the body inside. They replace the top, sealing the body inside. Termites are not flesh eaters (wood ? remember?) so they ignore the foreign body and continue about their business. The corpse will forever be sealed in the termite mound, safe from marauding animals.

More photos!

Shark diving?.

A trip to Klein Baai to see the great whites turned out to be a pants changing adventure. We boarded the boat and headed out into the ocean with a few other nervously excited divers. The sharks appeared almost at once, circling the boat to the Jaws show tune. We were in the last group of divers and the sharks seemed to get bored and back off. We were worried that they would disappear before we got our turn. We dropped down into the freezing Atlantic and held our breath. Just then, the biggest shark of the day ? over 5 feet ? arrived on the scene with an explosion of teeth and gums. He breached ? jumping almost completely from the water ? three times right in front of the cage. He then took hold of the cage - right where Ian?s feet had been only moments before ? and gave it a good shake. It was a thrill a minute and we even got to go home with friendly shark man Lance who put us up for the night.

We highly recommend the Shark Lady Ocean Adventures for an eco-friendly adventure.

Great white sharks are a protected species. The shark fin demand is so great that over 100 million sharks were killed worldwide last year. At this rate, they will be extinct in 50 years. Please don?t eat shark fin products! Ta so much.

To have your own sharkie adventure, call Lance at +27 283123287 or visit their website at: www.sharklady.co.za

From Grahamstown to the beaches of Jeffrey?s Bay ? touted as the best point break in the world ? they can tout away? Giant waves lined up like soldiers march down the aptly named ?Super Tubes? beach. It?s a beautiful thing.

We were reunited with our good friend Ross who went on a surfing weekend and never left. We were lucky to be there during the week of South Africa?s only international surf contest. Watching two of the best surfers in the world, we were wowed by a family of dolphins who rode not one, but all the waves all the way down the beach. It reminded us that, although we are very clever apes, we are still just fish out of water.

From J-Bay we took the treacherous and the cliffhanger of a road through Baviaanskloof ? the second biggest game reserve in South Africa. It delightfully emptied out into the Knysna state forest. The wonderful campsites in the trees are nestled among 800 year old yellowwoods. We were the only campers and had the run of the place to ourselves for the next few days.

A dismal night at the George Tourist Resort ? to be voided! The next night we camped in the lovely Cape Agulhas Reserve at the southernmost tip of Africa.

Port St. John’s – porpoise paradise. You know it’s a great place when you come for a day and stay for three. The ONLY place to rest your head in Port St. John’s is Amapondo Backpackers. It’s a hidden gem just out of town on the way to 2nd beach. This great place has everything you need: great restaurant and bar, drumming around the fire pit, surfing and hikes – all conducted for free by the uber friendly staff.  Movies on the big screen on rainy nights and a self service kitchen where you can cook your own nosh if you are living on the cheap. Amapondo run a volunteer group for crafts and a surfing school. The owners of Amapondo, Tim and Annie, will offer a discount on accommodation for volunteers who participate in this worthy cause.
To volunteer contact Annie at www.amapondo.co.za.